Mastering the Art of 360 Waves: Styling Guide, Tips, and Haircut Suggestions (2024)

360 waves is one of the hottest trending black men’s hairstyles since ages for all the right reasons. As a guy with 4a hair type, I can tell you with full confidence that getting the look right is more about patience and less about the products you use.

Brushing long enough twice every day for anywhere between a couple of weeks to a couple of months is absolutely crucial to obtain 360 waves. How long it’s going to take you to get 360 waves depends on the texture of your hair. Looser curls usually take longer.

In this 360 wave guide, I am going to address the most common questions asked by beginner wavers in as much detail as possible. I will also highlight some common mistakes people make during the course of achieving the look to give you a complete idea of what to do and what to avoid.

Let’s jump into it then –

Preparing Your Hair for 360 Waves

Getting and maintaining the absolutely flawless, healthy-looking 360 waves is a delicate balance between using the right tools, applying the right technique, and having enough patience.

Supplies You’ll Need for 360 Wave Styling:

More on this in detail below –

What Kind of Brush to Use for 360 Waves?

It largely depends on the texture, length of your hair, and the kind of look you are going for. The more you brush, the faster the waves appear.

From prep to wolfing, you will need different brushes at different stages of the process. Hence, the logical move is to buy 3 brushes – a soft, medium, and hard-bristle brush.

As someone who used to aggressively brush with a hard-bristle brush, I can tell you with certainty that it’s a bad idea for beginners.

Always choose a soft-bristle brush to train your short hair. Unlike hard-bristle brushes, it’s gentle on the scalp and won’t cause hair breakage.

Switch to a harder brush as your hair grows. Soft-bristle brushes are the most versatile of them all as you can use them for both training your waves and wolfing.

What Shampoo Is Best for Waves?

Can you use any shampoo for waves? Yes, you can. Just make sure to use a quality sulfate-free shampoo. Follow it up with a conditioner, preferably a shea butter-infused leave-in conditioner and an all-natural water-based pomade. Avoid petroleum-based products as they can clog your scalp pores.

How Often Should You Wear a Durag for 360 Wave?

Wearing durag right after the long, meticulous brushing sessions is a critical step. A good, silky durag will keep your hair in place and moisturized.

Ideally, you should be wearing the durag whenever you are not brushing. For even better compression, consider wearing a wave cap below the durag.

How Long Does It Take to Get 360 Waves?

According to the general consensus, the estimated wolfing time for the following hair types are:

Geney, if you brush right and often enough, you should start noticing the ripples within a few weeks. It will take about 2 months to get some depth, definition, and connection.

The angle at which you brush plays a pivotal role in determining how well-connected your waves will be. Looser curls take longer to transform into deep waves. The whole process could take up to 6 months or even more as everyone’s hair is built differently.

360 Wave Styling Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

360 waves isn’t just a hairstyle. It’s a lifestyle and you should be ready to commit to it. There’s absolutely no way to get 360 waves overnight, sorry to disappoint you.

Step 1: Repair All Hair and Scalp-related Issues (If Any)

A good place to start would be to address and solve issues like frizzy, weak strands, dandruff etc. The key to a healthy, defined 360 wave pattern is healthy hair.

Take care of your manes with proper cleansing and conditioning. Ditch your chemical-loaded styling products and switch to natural products to improve your hair and scalp health.

Step 2: Get a Haircut

The length of the buzz cut strictly depends on your hairstyle. As a rule of thumb, the coarser your hair is, the shorter your hair should be. However, don’t crop it so tightly that your scalp is visible. Avoid tapering or fading until you get to the wolfing stage.

For coarse hair, I recommend keeping the hair 1-1.5” short for highly textured hair, 2” for medium hair, 3-4” for curly hair, and 4-5” for straight hair for optimal wave.

Step 3: Shampoo and Condition

Once you get the wave haircut, rinse your hair thoroughly with a sulfate-free shampoo. A curl-enhancing shampoo is a better option for people with straight hair. Wash your hair only once a week and don’t forget the conditioner.

Frequent washing can strip your hair of its essential oils and leave your waves looking messy and dehydrated. Some wavers opt for co-washing in between regular washes to keep the hair silky and healthy.

Co-washing simply means using only conditioner to “wash” your hair in between shampooing sessions.

Step 4: Brush, Brush, and Brush Some More

The formation, depth, and definition of 360 waves will largely depend on your brushing routine. Do not, I repeat, do not brush on dry hair. It will only lead to hair damage. Work on slightly damp hair.

Take a soft or medium boar-bristle brush and apply 50 strokes from crown to the forehead, 50 strokes from the crown to each side of your head, and 50 strokes from crown to the nape of your neck.

When brushing the sides, make sure to use angled downward strokes so that your brush is pointed towards the chin instead of your cheekbones.

The brushing session could last for 30 minutes, depending on the texture of your hair. So be patient. You should brush following the aforementioned method at least twice a day for optimal results.

Step 5: Apply a Wave Grease

So much brushing can be pretty rough on your hair and scalp. That’s why you need to supply your hair with ample moisturization throughout your entire 360 wave journey. Hydrate and replenish your manes with a shea butter and essential oil-infused pomade.

For extremely coarse and thick hair, consider including Jamaican castor oil in your regimen to improve the hold of your painstakingly brushed hair.

Step 6: Wear a Durag

Do not skip the durag. Tie a durag firmly around your hair immediately after brushing. Although waver-purists will recommend you to keep it on all the time except when you are brushing, I understand that it’s not always practical.

At the very least, you should be wearing it for 30 minutes after brushing and during bedtime to hold your waves in place. Durag also helps to lock in the moisture, preventing your waves from looking untidy and frizzy during the wolfing period.

That brings me to my next topic, what exactly is wolfing?

Wolfing for 360 Waves – Essential Tips

Wolfing is the process of going without a haircut for an extended period of time – typically 2-12 weeks. The longer you wait between haircuts, the deeper and more defined your waves would be. I completely understand how difficult it is to resist cutting your hair but my word of advice is DON’T.

Here’s a simple, actionable method for wolfing – increase the gap between cuts in intervals. Let me explain:

To keep your waves smooth and in shape during the wolfing period, brush as often as possible, moisturize, put on a durag, wear a wave cap underneath the durag if you need better compression, and avoid shampooing your hair more than once a week.

If you’re unable to lay down your hair as much as you want to, you’re not brushing enough. That’s the only way to train your hair to lay flat at the root and sides.

5 Evergreen 360 Waves Hairstyles You Can’t Go Wrong With

One of the best parts about 360 waves is that you can pair it up with just about any fade haircut. My top 5 favorite 360 waves hairstyles would be-

1. Low Fade + Waves

The clean lines and sharp angles of a low fade cut are perfect for anyone who wants an edgy look without exposing too much scalp. A low taper fade down the sides will also make your 360 waves appear more defined.

2. 360 Waves with Side Part

Add some pizzazz to our tapered wave haircut with a chic side part to create a stunning contrast with your deep waves. Use a short clipper or razor to carefully shave a half-moon in front or on one side of your head.

3. High Fade Cut with 360 Waves

A high-fade haircut is much easier to style and maintain than 360 waves. To get this dynamic, edgy look, get a high drop fade on the sides. Keep the look sharp and stunning with a line-up and perhaps a badass side part too.

4. Taper Fade with Wave

Taper fade with wave creates a classic, clean-cut professional look for men who want to keep it interesting but not too dramatic.

5. 360 Waves with Hair Designs

Add an eye-popping element to your bold 360 wave hairstyle zigzag lines, tri-lines, heart shape, or any cool pattern on the sides or in front of your head.

In Conclusion

Getting 360 waves takes some serious time and effort. However, if you get your brushing technique right and brush often enough combined with the right styling products, you will get the desired look. It’s a myth that only people of African descent can achieve 360 waves.

If your hair has a little curl to it (say 3a-3c type), you can get waves, regardless of your race. Although it’s going to take much longer, the reward is worth the wait and hard work.

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